Duftin Hungary 1986-ban lett bejegyezve a cégjegyzékbe. Azóta nagy variációban, megbizhatóan gyártunk dekoratív hímzőkészleteket. Haladó szellemünk és magas szakmai kompetenciánk legfőbb jellemzőink közé tartoznak. Hogy a különböző készségű kézimunkázóknak kihívást és változatosságot nyújtsunk, különböző hímzési technikákra készítjük a készleteinket, mint például keresztszemes, laposöltés, árnyékhímzés, makrami és sok más öltési forma kerül felhasználásra.
A változatos és esztétikus kolleciónkkal magas mínőségű és folyamatosan megújuló termékvilágot nyújtunk önök számára. Designvilágukkal együtt uj aszeszoárokat és termékeket találunk fel, hogy teljességben elláthassuk önök igényeit a kézimunkában.
Az összes Duftin-készlet tartalmazza a szabott anyagot előrenyomott minával, a tűt, a hímzési használati utasítást és megfelelő mennyiségű cérnát a projekt befejezéséhez. Tegyen hozzá rugalmasságot és megbízhatóságot és egy professzionális partnert találhat bennünk egy hosszútávú üzleti kapcsolatra.
A továbbiakban néhány hímzési technikát szeretnénk önöknek bemutatni, megértésüket kérjük, hogy az alábbi instrukciókat csak angol nyelven tudjuk szolgáltatni.
„In this chapter we would like to give you some help regarding the different techniques for stitching. There are plenty of possible methods in needlecraft. This is just meant to be a brief introduction for our „do-it-youself” kits to support the customers to enjoy the fabrication and improve their skills. Just klick on the pictures to get to the different guides.”
This is one of the simplest and most versatile stitches. A row of Cross Stitches is sewn in two passes - first stitching in one direction, then the other, as shown in this drawing:
To achieve fine detail in counted-thread Cross-Stitch designs, sometimes you need to make a stitch that intersects the grid in the middle. This is called the Quarter-Cross Stitch. It is usually combined with a Half Cross Stitch to make a Three-Quarter Cross Stitch.
In Counted Cross Stitch designs, you can use this stitch to effectively cut a grid square in half, achieving greater precision in the design.
This stitch is worked as two lines of Backstitches, alternating between the rows. When stitched on fine or sheer fabric, the understitches show through (in the drawing, dotted lines), making a lovely shadow effect.
When you are working Shadow Embroidery, the shape that you want to stitch is rarely that of two parallel lines. More often, it is a curve - a leaf or a petal. When one side of the shape is longer than the other, you will need to adjust the size of your stitches so that the same number of stitches covers both edges. Notice that there are 8 stitches on each line, but the stitches on the top row are slightly longer than those on the bottom row. This lets the criss-crossing in the back cover the shape more evenly.
- The stitches should be small and even. The ensures that the shadow (the understitching) is fairly dense and even.
- Make sure that two adjacent stitches on a row share a hole. If they don't, then the outline of the shadowed shape will look like a dotted line.
- The shadow will be lighter that the thread, because it it showing through the fabric. You may need to stitch with a thread darker than you might guess in order to get the desired shadow color.
- Don't try to work Shadow Embroidery on a spae that is too wide. The understitches will be too long, and it will be too hard to get a nice-looking shadow. Break the shape into smaller shapes.
Embroidery uses various combinations of stitches. Each embroidery stitch has a special name to help identify it. These names vary from country to country and region to region. Some embroidery books will include name variations. Taken by themselves the stitches are mostly simple to execute, however when you put them together the results can be extremely complex. These are just a few examples, we use in our collections.
The Satin Stitch is a beautiful stitch, very common in fine heirloom embroideries. It consists of long stitches covering a small shape and lying next to each other, so that no fabric shows between the stitches. The surface of the embroidered shape looks smooth and satiny. When this stitch is not padded, it is often referred to as the Flat Stitch (although there is another stitch of the same name). When it is stitched on an even- or coarse-weave fabric, and the shape is geometric (such as a square or a star), it is easy to keep the edges clean by using the fabric's weave a guide for stitch placement.
It takes a lot of practice to master this stitch, so be patient with yourself at first. Try the Padded Satin Stitch first, unless you are stitching a geometric shape on an even-weave fabric.
The Chain Stitch is easily adapted to smocking, and makes a lovely, textured line. Like the Feather Stitch in smocking, it is stitched from right to left. The result looks similar to the Wheat Stitch.
Start the stitch by exiting the left side of the first pleat. Make the link across a single pleat, as shown in the drawing below. At the end of the chain, secure the last link with a small stitch on the top of the pleat.
You can also stitch the Chain Stitch across two pleats, if you prefer.
The Chain Stitch does not have to be stitched as a horizontal line. It makes an interesting diagonal line, an alternative to the Trellis Stitch. Notice that the Chain Stitch Links are a little longer when stitched on the diagonal.
- Keep the tension on each stitch fairly loose and even - the links on the chain should be open and uniform.
- The stitches should not be too deep into the pleat, or the chain's links will sink into the valley. The stitches should be on the top of the pleats.
The Lazy Daisy Stitch, or Detached Chain Stitch, is a common embellishment stitch in smocking. Like other embellishment stitches, it is stitched on the very top of the pleat. This is easy to do if the Lazy Daisy is vertical - it starts and ends on the same pleat.
When you stitch on an angle or horizontally, the needle will pass through several pleats. Just be sure that the stitch is tacked down on the top pf the pleat.
The most common use for the Lazy Daisy Stitch in smocking is, you guessed it, daisies. Often stitched with a French Knot or a Two-Pleat French Knot in the center.
The French Knot is a common stitch used in smocking designs. Like all other embellishment stitches, it is worked on the top of the pleat.
Start by bringing the thread up the very top of the pleat. With the needle pointing up, wrap the thread once around the needle (Step 1). Insert the needle at the start of the stitch, still at the top of the pleat (Step 2). Before pulling the needle through, tighten the wrap.
- Use a straw or milliner's needle. The needle's shaft doesn't taper, and the eye of the needle has the same diameter. This allows the needle to slide smoothly through the wrap in Step 2.
- After tightening the wrap, hold it down with your thumb as you pull the needle through. This prevents the knot from becoming unwrapped and looking loose.
- If you are smocking on a more open-weave fabric, such as most linens, the knot may have a tendency to pop through to the back after you stitch it. To prevent this, insert the needle one or two threads away from where the stitch started.
- Some embroidery book and teachers have you hold the needle pointing down when you're making the wrap. This doesn't work. The knot doesn't hold at all.
- To make a slightly bigger knot, wrap the needle twice or three times. If three wraps doesn't make the knot big enough, add more strands of thread to your needle.
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